In 1924 Los Angeles, the “roaring 20s” was starting its roar.  The Spanish Flu pandemic was over.  LA was defining itself as the center of the burgeoning film industry.  Jazz music was finding its voice.  Artists & writers were discovering new ways to express themselves.  And Spanish Colonial architecture was all the rage.  Life in LA was good!  

And amidst all this, a small unassuming, 15-stool cafe opened for the “everyman.”  Not the movers & shakers, not the people making a name for themselves, but for the people who go to work every day to take care of their families.  This was a place where they could get a good meal at a good price.  

The Original Pantry Cafe opened in 1924 as a 24 hour cafe, and it’s still open today.  

Pre-pandemic, they boasted that since opening in 1924, the restaurant had never been closed or without a customer, including when they moved locations in 1950 to make way for the freeway.

I believe it.  Whenever I drove past the restaurant, no matter the time of day or night, there was always a line waiting to get in.  And yet, I never stopped. It was something I always wanted to do, but it had been there since 1924 — I had time.

Then after 96 years, their 24-hour, always open, never-without-a-customer streak ended when the 2020 Covid pandemic forced all businesses to close. Life, as we knew it, changed forever.

The restaurant recently reopened for dine-in customers, and unsurprisingly, there’s STILL a line outside for people waiting to eat there.

The pandemic changed the way I view life.  Things I’ve always wanted to do “sometime” have become important to do now.  

So I decided to finally wait in line and see why people have been coming for nearly 100 years.  Any restaurant that has survived the depression, multiple wars, 17 presidents, the pandemic, and still has people standing in line waiting for a seat?  

That’s a place you have to try.

On the day I went, the line wasn’t too long, and neither was the wait.

The inside is a small, 50s-style diner.  On the right is a counter with several fixed stools.  This section was closed for the day.  Tidy rows of ketchup bottles, hot sauce and sugar packets were ready for the next day’s patrons.  Behind it was the grill, cooled & cleaned.  Further back was the kitchen, bustling with cooks & waiters.

The other side had 12 or so tables that can seat parties of 2, 4 or 6.

I was seated in the middle, next to a window that looked into the adjacent kitchen.  I was by myself, so I enjoyed watching the efficient grill cook handling all the different orders.

You aren’t given a menu.  Rather, the menu is posted on the wall, along with celebrity photos, local heroes and photos of the cafe in days gone by.  There wasn’t a shortage of interesting things to look at (besides my phone).

The menu is what I would call midwest American fare – roast beef, sirloin tips, country fried steak, pork chops, burgers … things like that.  This is the food I grew up with in Kentucky, and my mouth was watering.

The waiter took my order and I soon had my first course – a very large cole slaw.  It was tangy and delicious.  And did I mention – it was huge!  

Next was my main course.  I ordered the roast beef.  

It came out steaming hot. Layer after layer of tender roast beef covered in brown gravy, resting next to a bed of mashed potatoes and succulent, sweet corn.  Can I just say, I was in heaven!  

The roast beef was so tender, I could easily cut it with my fork – no knife needed.  It was perfectly seasoned, as was the brown gravy.  

The mashed potatoes were just how I like them.  The slight lumps in the texture add a touch of coarseness and give the dish a home-cooked feel.  The inclusion of the small bits of the potato peel added a touch of earthiness and flavor.  It was perfect for those who prefer a more natural, less-processed taste in their food, and enjoy a touch of texture in their dishes.  Or in a word, delish!!  

The corn was plump, sweet, and flavorful.  The plumpness of the kernels and the sweetness mean the corn was harvested in season at the peak of ripeness.  It’s the perfect side dish for people who enjoy a little sweet with their savoy.  And it adds a pop of color to the dish.  

And the portions were huge!  I ate what I could and had the rest packed to go.  The roast beef was another 3 meals for me at home!  The mashed potatoes and corn were gone much sooner.

For dessert, I selected the peach cobbler, another down-home favorite from my childhood that’s not found very often in LA.  I asked that it be heated.

As with the first 2 courses, it was huge!  A large bowl of cobbler that I knew I’d never be able to finish in one sitting.

As it was placed in front of me, I could smell the brown sugar & cinnamon, and I was really looking forward to the first, hot bite, hoping for a crispy top with gooey peaches underneath.  

This was my only disappointment in the meal – It wasn’t evenly warmed.  The top was warm (not hot), but the cobbler underneath was cold.  So the first bite was a dud.  Instead of the hot, gooey goodness I had imagined, was a lukewarm crust with cold peach.

The flavors, though, were good (although it would have been much better if it were hot).

At this point, I was already stuffed and I knew I wasn’t going to be able to eat it in the restaurant.  So after a couple of bites, I had that wrapped to take home as well.  

And I was right about the flavors – once I got home and heated it to my preferred temperature – piping hot, but not enough to burn your tongue – it was excellent!  The sweet smell of cinnamon & brown sugar, a crunchy crust on top and sweet, peachy goodness inside.  Sigh … it was a dessert lover’s dream!  

I can see now why people wait outside to eat here.  Generous portions, efficient service, reasonable prices, and extra-extra-yummy food make this a must-eat place if you are in Los Angeles.  

The cafe has been in its current location since 1950, so the history inside the cafe is also interesting.  

They also sell t-shirts, hats & other swag, if you want to take a bit of the memory with you.

It’s no longer open 24 hours.  Check their web site for their current dine-in hours.

But this is definitely a place I will be returning to again (and again, and again, and … you get it).

The Original Pantry is located in downtown LA at the corner of 8th and Figueroa.
The address is 877 South Figueroa Street Los Angeles, CA 90017.
The web address is https://pantrycafe.restaurant/
Call them at (213) 972 – 9279, or email them at info@pantrycafe.com